Posts regarding Gunpla tips, tricks and tutorials about painting, building and customizations.
Hello guys! Here is the finished write-up and article that I wrote for FromJapan blog about my style on Gunpla weathering and battle damage. Enjoy! Feel free to ask any questions below the comments section.
Note: Image above is made by FromJapan. All credits of the title image are to them. 😀
Hi guys! I’m currently in the process of creating a Gunpla weathering tutorial. And here’s the supporting video so far: Gunpla Weathering Demonstration. A write-up will be to follow that will include materials used and the process that I did. Till next post!
Hello everyone! It’s been long time since the last update. Been busy with adult life. I have a few backlog Gunpla kits now, hope to build them soon! As for now, here’s another tutorial/guide that I wrote for From Japan. Thank you From Japan for accommodating my article!
Always heard about top coat here, top coat there, but have not been able to try it? Maybe because you’re afraid of ruining your Gunpla after all that hard work? Worry not! Topcoating will not ruin your Gunpla as long as you do it the right way! And it’ll make you’re Gunpla look way better and have your paint job protected!
Here’s the guide: http://www.fromjapan.co.jp/blog/en/others/gundam-top-coat-guide-giving-your-gunpla-a-fantastic-finish.html
Enjoy! Till next update! 😀
Hi guys! Here’s another article that I wrote for fromjapan. Ever finished an MG kit then you saw how massive the amount of decals were? And you were just so intimidated and afraid that you’ll ruin your kit that you did not go through with applying the decals? Well, be afraid not! Because it’s just intimidating but not really hard to do if you get the hang of it! Here’s the article that I wrote about application of dry transfer and water slide decals. Enjoy! And I hope it helps out fellow Gunpla hobbyists out there! 🙂
Panel lining is an easy way to make your Gunpla kit more detailed and awesome! Don’t be afraid that you’ll ruin your kit because it is easy to do and I will show you two easy methods that I personally use:
1st thing to do is of-course find a part that we need to panel line:
Materials that will be used are the marker of your choice and a rubber eraser, my personal favorite is the COPIC Multiliner. For the rubber eraser, I like the red rough ones being sold in National Bookstore.
This method is pretty easy, just ink on the panel lines like shown in the photos below, don’t worry about excess ink or lines that go out of the panel lines. The rubber eraser will fix that.
As you can notice, the panel lining is a bit thick and there’s a little smudge at the bottom of this part. Rubbing the lines using the rubber eraser can quickly clean your panel lining neatly.
Extra tip: Rub the panel line using your rubber eraser perpendicular to the line being cleaned. COPIC Multiliners are not quick to dry, so it’s easy to clean mistakes.
And viola! A nice thin panel line! =3 Easy right?
This method is also known as enamel wash as it involves thinned out enamel paint as the panel lining tool. Before Tamiya produced these Panel Line Accent Color bottles(which are enamel based), hobbyists resort to the original Tamiya enamel paints and thin it with lighter fluid or enamel thinner. Anyway, good thing they made these Panel Line Accent Color so that you don’t need to thin your own enamel paint and these bottles come with a handy applicator.
Materials that will be used are the following: Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color, Tamiya X-20 Enamel Paint Thinner, cotton swabs.
Extra info: Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color comes in different colors like grey and brown. I still like black.
This method is also easy! You just have to use the applicator that is attached to the bottle cap and dab it to the panel lining. The concept is that the enamel paint is thinned enough that it will run itself through the lines, all you have to do is dab a small amount of Panel Line Accent Color on any part of the panel line.
WARNING: Do not overdo and put too much enamel paint on the piece! Before dabbing it on the piece, you can remove excess ink from the applicator by just skidding it by the bottle’s opening. If there’s too much ink on the piece, you can quickly clean it using some swabs, don’t worry about smudges as we can clean it later. The reason behind this is because too much enamel paint on the Gunpla’s plastic material can make it brittle and crack. So be careful okay?
The piece will look something like this after Panel Line Accent Color application:
Now we can clean the smudges and ink blots using a small amount of enamel paint thinner on a cotton swab.
Just dab the cotton swab with the enamel paint thinner lightly on the excess ink, don’t press too hard as you can remove the underlying panel lining.
And viola! Beautiful clean panel lining!
That’s it for this tutorial! I hope fellow hobbyists and Gunpla beginners will find it useful. You can ask questions in the comment section below and I’ll glady answer it. 🙂
This page is to show how I remove nib marks on my Gunpla kits, there are a lot of other techniques out there and I can’t say mine is the best.We all have our own preferences and this is my technique in removing and cleaning out nib marks. Its quite simple and its an adaptation of two techniques.
Gunbies 